I have finally gotten started actually sewing my court gown. I am starting with the foundation for the bodice, which is essentially a built in pair of stays. (for those unfamiliar with the 18th century, stays are the earlier version of the corset).
Although it is not from exactly the right era, I decided to use the 1690 stays pattern from Norah Waugh’s “Corsets and Crinolines”. I chose to do so for several reasons. One is because it is because this is a pattern taken from a court bodice (which is what I am making) and court bodices are known to be very conservative in style (the fashion for them changed very little in a century). The other patterns are all for proper stays.
In addition, the pattern for the fully boned stays c. 1740 laced in the front, which is not what I was looking for, and the 1776 stays were half boned.
For materials, I am using a linen canvas to create the foundation, and cane/reed for the boning. Whalebone, which was what was most commonly used in the era, is now unobtainable, so our options today, are to either use cane or a synthetic boning. Synthetic bones are made of plastic, and plastic does a very good job of holding in heat. Obviously, it is not historically accurate either. I am using a jeweler’s saw to cut the cane because I happened to have one lying around. I’m not sure what other people use but the little saw is quite convenient. Continue reading
Elegance of Times Past 